Batabatacha

Batabatacha (バタバタ茶) is a Japanese post-fermented tea introduced from China, bearing a strong resemblance to Chinese Pu-erh tea. It is primarily associated with the town of Asahi in Toyama Prefecture and the city of Itoigawa in Niigata Prefecture. Until 1976, it was also produced in Fukui Prefecture.

Etymology

In Japanese, the onomatopoeic word batabata describes a rattling or fluttering sound. Many people attribute the tea’s name to the rattling produced by the Chasen whisk when it is shaken quickly in a bowl. However, the name more accurately refers to the rapid back-and-forth motion of the whisk, which creates the tea’s characteristic froth.

Production Process

Fermentation

Batabatacha undergoes a single-stage fermentation, similar to awabancha, but employs a distinct method. The leaves are steamed (rather than boiled) to halt enzymatic oxidation, and the way they are piled for fermentation is unique to this tea.

Cultivar and Harvest

The leaves used for Batabatacha come from the Yabukita cultivar. Traditionally, picking and processing were done by hand, but most farms now use machine harvesting. Depending on the farm’s requirements, harvesting can occur between late July and early August or in September, after the summer harvest for Japanese second flush teas (nibancha). Both leaves and twigs are generally collected, though tougher twigs and thick branches are removed before further processing.

Steaming and Piling

After harvesting, the leaves are steamed, rubbed, and placed on a cloth inside a large storage box known as a muro, whose bottom and walls are lined with straw mats. Once fermentation begins, the internal temperature of the piled leaves gradually increases. When the pile’s temperature reaches approximately 60–70 °C, the leaves are transferred to a different box and cooled to around 35 °C to ensure even fermentation and prevent damage. This procedure is repeated every two or three days, each time using a new muro prepared in advance. Skilled artisans perform this process 10–15 times, determining the exact number of repetitions based on the condition of the leaves. Fermentation is complete when the leaves have softened and their temperature no longer rises, which can take up to a month.

Drying

Once fermentation is finished, the leaves are dried for about half a day in the shade before being placed in the sun for an additional two to three days, until they are fully dried.

Preparation

Batabatacha is notable not only for its unique production method but also for its traditional preparation. Like Matcha, it is whisked with a chasen to create a dense, soft foam on the surface. This frothy texture contributes to Batabatacha’s distinctive character and taste.